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This morning we begin day nine and are off for a spectacular, early morning, ride along the winding roads of Highway 12. Mindful of the deer that populate this area, we will follow the Lochsa and Clearwater Rivers for 75 miles. This stretch of highway will truly amaze you in its splendor and beauty.
Our ride takes us through the small town of Grangeville, Idaho and continues to the top of White Bird Hill where we have a spectacular panoramic view of the Salmon River Canyon below. From here it's a steep, crooked, gorgeous descent, down the highway grade to White Bird junction. Only the truckers hate the 2,700' drop in eight miles. The descent past the tiny town of White Bird takes us into the Salmon River valley.
As we descend White Bird Hill, we pass the site where a battle between the Nez Perce Indians and the U.S. army occurred in 1877, which was won by the Nez Perce. The first battle of the Nez Perce War was fought at White Bird Battlefield on June 17, 1877. The battlefield is about 15 miles south of Grangeville, Idaho, between U.S. Highway 95 and the old White Bird Grade, approximately 0.5 miles from the town of White Bird, Idaho.
The site is approximately 1,245 acres of sloping topography that retains much of the appearance it probably had in 1877. The surrounding land is used for agriculture. There are excellent views across the battlefield, with minor intrusions from ranch and residential structures and associated features such as roads and fences. There are archeological sites and a few abandoned homestead remnants.
This road has history behind it, as it’s a National Historic Area. It’s also the only North-South road to traverse Idaho. There’s no other way through this geologic formation, and even this area is so tough that the original road had enough curves to form 37 complete circles if pieced together.
The sixteen-mile stretch along US-95 from Grangeville to White Bird treats travelers to an astonishing array of scenery. Early settlers probably didn’t appreciate it as we do. The twenty-minute drive we now experience was for them a grueling full day’s ride aboard horse or wagon.
The two main towns in Salmon River Canyon are White Bird and Riggins. The 27-miles between them comprise the only "populated" area along the lower 200-miles of the river. The Lower Salmon, the 55 miles downstream from White Bird to its confluence with the Snake, is a wild river, all the way. From Riggins, 250 miles upstream to its source, the Salmon is called “The River of No Return”. It is one of the few remaining untamed rivers anywhere.
We continue following the Salmon River Canyon and arrive in Riggins, the Whitewater Capital of Idaho. Riggins is nestled deep in a canyon at the confluence of the Salmon River and the Little Salmon River, approximately 150 highway miles north of Boise. The Salmon River cut this canyon through basalt lava flows over 15 million years ago. Each bend in the river offers a new and beautiful variation on this scenic canyon. Riggins is not much more than a narrow main street crowded against the side of the canyon, consisting of a number of whitewater rafting outfitters, tourist and support services.
Located between the two deepest gorges in North America – Hells Canyon to the west and the Salmon River Canyon to the east – Riggins rides the banks of the Little Salmon and the famous Salmon River. Known for world class whitewater rafting and steelhead fishing, the excitement never ends in Riggins!
The Frank Church “River of No Return” Wilderness and Seven Devils Mountains and Snake River of Hells Canyon National Recreation Area offer a unique mix of rivers, streams, high mountain lakes, rugged canyons, alpine meadows, and forests. Many commercial outfitters are located in Riggins to guide and assist in the Idaho whitewater adventure.
We will spend the evening in Riggins and enjoy the atmosphere of a small town, the awesome beauty of the canyon, some fine western hospitality and a river-rafting trip on the Salmon River.
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